Places of Note
So, you made it to NYC (or live here.)  And you're visiting Chinatown.
Whenever I'm in Chinatown (or other notable foodie areas), here's a list of my mandatory "must-go" stops - and a newbie tip or two.


Chinatown: Groceries and Supermarkets

Bangkok Center Grocery - 104 Mosco Street (off Mott)
Mosco Street is a small secluded allyway off Mott - not much is there, but a nice fried dumpling place...and Bangkok Center Grocery, which offers us dessert mongers a second place to find good Thai sweets n' snacks (the first is Udon's on Bayard.)

Deluxe Food Market - 79 Elizabeth Street (Chinese)
It's a block long spanning from Mott Street through to Elizabeth, like a corridor.  It has everything.  A solid selection of baked goods, cheap sushi, congee, lots of exotic entrees, and very good prices.  They also have extremely well priced raw meats and seafood for home cooking.  Eat with the crowd, sitting or standing at the cluster of tables in the common area.  You have to be slightly persistent to be noticed at the counter, but persevere, and it's worth it.

Dynasty Supermarket - 68 Elizabeth Street (Mixed)
Isles and isles of authentic Asian groceries.  Pungent smells of fish, bok choy, noodles, dumplings, and tons of stuff that you'll just stare at and wonder what the heck it is.  A great introduction to the variety available in Asian cuisine.  Go to the refrigerated section, and you will find $2.00 tins of various pre-prepared grab and go items, like bean curd and garlic octopus.  Sometimes they give out free samples, too!

Elizabeth Street Wine and Liquor Store - 86 Elizabeth Street
This place seems to be pretty well stocked, better than the place I found previously on Mott Street.  Lots of brands of sake, and they even have baby, tiny bottles of plum wine (Umeshu) for sale.  Can't wait to start sampling the wares here...
Evergrand Trading - 272 Grand Street (off Forsyth)
A great medium sized Asian market that has haw flakes, melon seeds and a lot of other stuff, most of it in the $.75 - $2.00 range (in other words, really affordable.)  They also have Bimbo breakfast food (it might be a drink, I'm not sure)!  It's way off to the east, so it gets missed unless you go out of your way.  And that area of Grand street is a good little excursion.  If you're there, you should also check out Grand Century Market (281 Grand) and HK Manpolo (291 Grand) (this one is particularly good!) .  Why not go and find out?

Hong Keung Seafood and Meat Market - 75 Mulberry Street
This is a treasure trove!  Not only is there plenty of meat and fish, but there's lots of dirt cheap staples here!  Kimchi in huge jars, tapioca flour, glutinous rice flour, and, well, everything!  And reasonably priced, too!  It doesn't look like anything from the outside, but you owe it to yourself to go in and look at the wares.  I even found refrigerated durian paste buns (although I haven't tried 'em yet!)  You should be walking down Mulberry Street anyway, to check out the Vietnamese restaurants.  So while you're there, go in here.  It's great for the do-it-yourselfer!

Hong Kong Food Market - 109 E. Broadway (Chinese)
If you don't want to go to Dynasty (see above), Hong Kong Food Market's a good substitute.  A little off the beaten track, but a good market, with all the right goods.
Kam Man - 200 Canal Street (Chinese)
A very large,  2 floor place right on Canal Street.  In the basement, there's a sea of fascinating kitchen hardware  - steamers, rice cookers, bowls and utensils. 

On the ground floor, you have a grocery store with snacks, frozen items.  And in the front, you have grab and go munchies!  The neatly packaged, moderately priced items (around $2.50) include such exotic Chinese goodies as chicken feet, cow intestine, bean curd and jellyfish.  It took me awhile to realize this stuff was there (I was too busy looking at everything else), but it's a treasure trove of dim sum type snacks. 

And if that's not enough, there are also reasonably priced refrigerated and non-refrigerated bubble tea kits ($5.50-$7.00), and $.90 cans of sago dessert drinks (which is a major savings over a $4.00 sago drink at Sweet N' Tart).  Give it a try! 
New York Supermarket, Inc. - 75 East Broadway (Various ethnicities)
Another good size supermarket to check out.  It has a good general stock of alot of things, but what stands out for me is: A good selection of ice creams (durian, taro, etc.), and I saw rambutans in the courtyard.  Haven't seen 'em elsewhere yet....
Po Wing Hong Food Market, Inc. - 49-55 Elizabeth Street, Inc.
Haven't bought anything here yet, but it's has a huge tea section, and you can also buy bird's nest to make at home...
Tan Tin Market - 121 Bowery (Vietnamese)
A Vietnamese market on the Bowery (a good street to explore, in general.)  Like Udon's Corp (see below), Tan Tin has several pre-made, affordable munchies for $1.50 or so  So sample some Vietnamese cakes or sticky rice rolls.  It's very much worth the trip.  A solid 3.4 stars!

Tongin Mart, Inc. - 91 Mulberry Street
Lots of Japanese stuff n' snacks here, and they also have sushi.  Some of their wares are a little on the expensive side, but the variety available (and convenience of the location) makes up for it.  Take a look!  (Strangely enough, it's also where I found Tim Tub - a Thai dessert.
Udon's Corp - Thai and Indonesian Grocery - 81A Bayard (Thai)
One of the few places to get Thai items.  Here you can find frozen galangal, and several premade Thai delicacies such as Kanom or Noew Tud for the very reasonable price of $1.50 at the register.  They have a particularly good snack - taro root with sugar and coconut milk, wrapped in sticky rice and banana leaf.  I wish I knew what it was called.  Worth a stop!  (He'll have you buying everything in the store.)
   
Chinatown: Restaurants and Delis
Babycakes - 248 Broome Street (between Orchard and Ludlow)
A small (non-asian) bakery, located on the northern edge of Chinatown.  An unassuming shoppe (with almost no signage), Babycakes specializes in healthy sweets, made with no wheat, gluten, eggs, dairy or even refined/artificial sugars.  It's like Magnolia, done vegan style - offering snacks such as chocolate cake, cupcakes, gingerbread and cookies.  Though somewhat expensive--averaging $3.00  per piece--the snacks are tasty.  (The banana bread was particularly nice - with a sweet, moist texture.)  Great for a change of pace - for those times when Taipan Bakery just doesn't get the job done!

2/4/07 Update - Since my visit to Babycakes, I've been around the block a few times...sampling the desserts available at several vegan joints (most on the westend).   The results have been outstanding, and much more memorable than the sweets offered at Babycakes.  So if you really, really want the perfect brownie or chocolate cake...consider Blossom or Sacred Chow as well as BC.  Sorry baby - you've been outclassed!

Banh Mi So - 369 Broome Street
A great little Vietnamese deli, with Banh Mi's, candies, and an absolutely amazing Banh Day, for only $1.00.  Go there, ye penitant!
Buddha Bodai - 5 Mott Street (Vegetarian Chinese)
AKA: Faux General Tso...Take Two!

You can never have enough General Tso Chicken (veggie style).  

In NYC, there's more than one place to get the goods - especially if you happen to be walking down Mott Street.  Of course, there's House of Vegetarian.  But keeping walking south and you'll find Buddha Bodai - specializing in vegetarian/vegan/kosher cuisine.  In vegetarian circles, BB is known for frighteningly realistic mock meat dishes, including Kung Pao Chicken, Abalone, Vegetarian Lobster, and yes, General Tso's  - a dish which earns rave reviews from BB's many devout fans.

Recovered from the unfortunate events at House of Vegetarian, I was ready to try again, and reach for the holy General Tso's grail (done up in Tofu, Seitan, or even Tempeh.)  With dish in hand, I walked to the park and popped the lid, the dish steaming in the cold January night air. 

The appearance of the dish looked good - the breading just right in color and shape.  The texture seemed....off....too mushy for classic General Tso (a little too yielding in the crust, and definitely too soft in the center. )  The portions were large and filling - perhaps too filling (leaving a feeling of heaviness which lasted for hours afterward.)  Though not sweet enough to pass for the real thing, the flavor was fine - and close to true.  Certainly the best veggie version I have seen to date.  Not a masterpiece, nor was it worth the high price tag of $14.00....but a good dish nonetheless, and worthy of some praise.

Given its high prices, Budda Bodai will never be a regular haunt - though maybe good for the occasional craving.   As I walked to the subway, I reflected upon my recent veggie travels...again and again seeking good faux meat dishes, each time meeting with (at least partial) disappointment.  Perhaps the state of the art just isn't there.  Or perhaps the mission itself is wrong - instead of looking for fake meat substitutes, why not glory in the flavor of true, honest veggies?  Grab a good steamed broccoli, or garlic sauce veggie platter and you can't go wrong.  It's tasty, it's yummy - and darn it, it's the real thing.
Chinatown Ice Cream Factory - 65 Bayard Street, off of Mott
A famous ice cream store.  And a favorite of my husband's.  Exotic flavors available include lychee, almond, and taro, as well as the more conservative flavors like strawberry and pineapple.  They say it's one of the best ice cream shoppes in the city - and they're a regular stop for Phil (my erstwhile husband.)  Myself, I prefer Cold Stone Creamery...
Congee Village - 100 Allen Street (Chinese - Cantonese)
I've heard that Congee Village is authentic, tasty - and the menu is intriguing.  Among the offerings: sizzling eel, frog, and fish stomach casserole.  The decor is somewhat cute too--replete with tons of theatrical bamboo.  Admittedly, all that I've had here was a Lychee Martini - but it was a decent size, and very reasonably priced for a Manhattan drink.  ($4.00).  So - not bad for a start!

Dim Sum Go Go - 5 E. Broadway (Chinese)

Do you love dim sum?  The delicate dumplings with translucent skin, the subtle Cantonese tastes...and the never ending arrival of steamer baskets with new and tempting treats?  Are you a dim sum veteran? You've had the rolling cart experience...and now find yourself more interested in getting straight to your favorites (from BBQ bao or peking duck, to more vegetarian options)? 

Then - give this small, classy dim sum joint a try.  Located at the southern tip of Chinatown proper, Dim Sum Go Go is a great experience.  Diners order straight from the menu (there are no rolling carts) but the options are delicious, and quite easy on the eyes.  The vegetarian options are wonderful, too.  While slightly expensive (at $11.00) I ordered the dim sum veggie platter - offering 10 delicately crafted dumplings, stuffed with soy bean, mushroom and/or white fungus (tinted everything from light green to bright fuscia!)

Was it worth it?  Yes - both in taste, and aesthetics.  Give DDGG a try - and experience the next level in dim sum dining.

Dumpling House - 118 Eldridge Street (Chinese)
A great, cheap dumpling house.  The service was a tad slow, but they're the best dumplings I've had so far in Manhattan - $1.00 for five.  Beats Dumpling Man by a mile!
Fong Inn Too (The Radish Cake and Soy Custard Guy)  - 46 Mott Street
There's a guy on Mott who operates out of a tiny booth on the east side of the street.  He serves Fried Radish Cake and Soy Custard (Taho) - both dirt cheap, and very good.  There's usually a small line.  Worth the wait.  Note: as of 7//04, it appears the Radish Cake guy has moved inside.  So go inside and partake - it's still worth the wait.

3/4/07 Update: Fong Inn has delicious Chee Cheong Fan - for only $1.00 a serving!!!  Yet another reason to frequent this Chinatown staple.
Fortune Delight - 31 Division Street (Chinese)
Not much to say - I ordered sea cucumber here.  Nice staff, but the dish and the sauce was rather underwhelming.  BUT  - they do have a nice sized $4.50 lunch special menu with good options, so I may try them again.
Fried Dumpling - 106 Mosco Street (Chinese)
Very plain, no frills - large fried dumplings and fried wontons.  5 for $1.00 - very filling!  Usually, there's a large crowd.  Too greasy for my tastes.
Fusion Crepes - 125 Bowery (Fusion Asian Fare)
Located at the corner of Bowery and Grand - a fantastic little nook serving sweet & savory crepes - many with an Asian bent.  On the savory side, creative menu items include salmon or sardines, potato curry crepes and spam and cheese (9 alternatives in all).  Dessert options include classic nutella/fruits and ice cream wraps (including durian flavored, yum!)  For group noshes, there's even a a $40.00 cake - featuring 20 layers of stacked crepes, loaded with fillings of your choice.  (Regular menu items are priced reasonably, running around $5.00 for savory, $3-4 for sweets.)  On my visit, I found myself actually preferring the savory crepe, called Nippon No Aji - a spectacular blend of tofu, mushroom, bonito flakes, okonomiyaki sauce and seaweed.   But go for yourself - and try one of each.  For me, this place is an instant favorite - and those ooey-gooey crepes really hit the spot!
Great NY Noodletown - 28 Bowery (off Bayard) (Chinese)
Hardly a secret to Chinatown regulars, Great NY Noodletown is known for its Cantonese eats - serving up items from congee (with all the usual toppings) to numerous noodle dishes (including wide noodles, lo mein and wonton/dumpling soups.   Filled with local clientelle (always a good sign), the space is bustling and admittedly cramped....but step inside and you'll immediately catch a whiff of the many salt-baked dishes available.  During the Gaijin Girl trip, samples included vegetable dumplings (plain but satisfying) and Hong Kong style lo mein, with ginger and scallions (a simple meal, but you could really taste the ginger.)  The food seems authentic, and it's dirt cheap - running around $3.00 for soup, and about $5.00 for a full meal..filling the average person close to bursting for less than $10.00.  Is the stuff fancy?  No.  But it's satisfying....and that's a plus with me.
Healthy Desserts - 150 Centre Street
I've walked by this place many times, wanted to go in, and never did.  Today, I did, and I'm really glad. 
It's a very friendly, open and accessible smoothie-dessert type boutique.  Bright, and clean, and just lots of nice, neat, different type treats.  On my first try, I had a more expensive dessert - Sago pearls with bird's nest, papaya and watermelon.    But they also have more affordable drinks, like Bird's Nest and Honey Jelly, at $3.20 a pop.  Definitely gotta go!  Several stars!  (Let me go a few more times, and I'll give a definitive rating.)

9/2/06 Update: Upon walking down Centre Street today, I found a new sign in place at 150 Centre Street: an establishment called Whatever.  Either Healthy Desserts has been renamed - or removed.  The menu appears to be the same, leading me to believe the former.  But only time (and a trip) will tell...
Hong Kong Station - 128 Hester Street (Hong Kong/Chinese)
A nifty little joint - specializing in Hong Kong style diner cuisine (establishments known in HK as Cha Chaan Teng).  The food is tasty and dirt cheap...ranging from "western style" spam and egg sandwiches to custom-made noodle dishes, with toppings such as curry fish balls (a street vendor favorite), beef tripe and veggies.  Other classic options include condensed milk toast, Horlicks and Lemon Coffee.  If you're interested in western food, done HK style (known as soy sauce western), then give this place a shot.  With noodles costing only $1.00, how can you go wrong?

House of Vegetarian – 68 Mott Street (Chinese Vegetarian)
Vegetarian Dim Sum House – 24 Pell (Chinese Vegetarian)

Owned by the same proprietor - two well known vegetarian haunts located in the heart of Chinatown (one on Mott, the other on nearby Pell Street.) Their menus blazoned with the same green and white Buddha, these restaurants serve up a number of dishes, done veggie style – from Orange Beef to General Tso...classic takeout fare, made with mock meat filling in for the real thing. As with many of their carnivorous brethren, the decoration is minimal – yet many vegetarians flock to their door – swearing by their flavor and authenticity.

For the GG trip, the litmus test was chicken (General Tso at HOV, Sweet and Sour at VDS.) Both restaurants won points for variety...offering literally hundreds of options, from mock steak to Peking Spare Ribs. The creativity also impressed – made from yam, the sweet and sour chicken almost passed the texture test...though it lost for authenticity, being fried instead of battered. It passed the taste test, too – dipped in a vivid orange sauce, dappled with pineapple and green pepper. As for the General Tso? Well, they gave me the wrong dish - a bland vegetable medley, tossed with thin slices of tofu. Neither dish was bad – but neither stood out...either as culinary masterpieces, or otherwise authentic fare (at least judging by the green pepper sauce.) And the cost? Over $10.00 per dish (rice not included) – more than your usual takeout, with less flavor in return.

I finished the Sweet and Sour in a nearby park – and gave the vegetable medley to a group of homeless, after taking a few tentative bites. It wasn't worth carting home, but I hate to see anything go to waste. Disappointed, I headed for the subway – reflecting that a better choice would have been honest, actual vegetables – stirfried by my local Chinese takeaway.
Jaya - 90 Baxter Street (Malaysian)
Great drinks, such as Cane Sugar Drink, ABC and Cendol.  Everyone's friendly (the best people I've met in any Malaysian restaurant so far), and you'll feel right at home.  The bathroom is none too big or nice, but who cares?  All the meals are delish - one of the great standouts is the Mango Chicken, which my husband ordered a few weeks ago.  Sweet, spicy, and served in the Mango shell.  You should go!
Jing Fong - 20 Elizabeth Street (Chinese Dim Sum)
One of the preferred dim sum halls in Chinatown.  Huge and reasonably priced!  It can sometimes be hard to get the carts to come over, though.
Joe's Shanghai - 9 Pell Street (Chinese)
A place with a great rep - I just know it as one of the few places to get drunken crab.
Mandarin Court - 61 Mott Street (Chinese)
Recently went to Mandarin Court for dim sum, as it was recommended by some friends.  The inside of Mandarin Court is modest - cafeteria style tables, no frills decor.  Positives: the carts come by regularly, there's no chasing down the carts, like you have to do at Jing Fong. The food is tasty, mostly subtly flavored and steamed (since it is dim sum.)  Negatives: honestly, I think there was less variety than Jing Fong - didn't see a single chicken foot the entire time I was there.  The cost: reasonable.  $12 a head for our party, and we certainly ate our fill.  Will I go back soon?  No.  Would I recommend?  Yes, although not with amazing passion.

Mott Street
Yes, just Mott.  It's a great introduction to Chinatown - probably the first street you should wander through.  Tons of stores, a few bakeries, and windy cross streets to explore.  Although, as you become a veteran of Chinatown, you may find Mott Street looking too touristy.  Check out Canal next.  

An important point:  While both Mott and Canal are good starting points, it would be a grave mistake to travel their length and assume that you've seen all that Chinatown has to offer.  The neighborhood is a large area, extending from Lafayette to Allan (East/West), and Delancy to East Broadway (North/South).  As with much of life in general--it's the road less travelled that is the most interesting.  So don't forget the perimeters, and tourist-free corners of Chinatown.  That's where some of the good stuff is!

Nha Sach Khan Tri – 145 Canal Street (off Bowery) (Vietnamese)

A small, unassuming storefront located on the corner of Canal and Bowery - nestled between the Chinatown Busline and the Brooklyn Bridge. Decorated with a plain yellow sign, Nha Sach cannot be found in Citysearch or Menupages. But inside lies a treasure trove of Vietnamese snacks and sweets, found nowhere else in Chinatown (at least by me). With a menu to rival neighboring Tin Tan, the store offers a wide range of munchies, from fried foods to sweet Banh Chay, bathed in warm syrup. It's just a matter of time before the foodies find this one – so dive into the Che...while its still hot and fresh!
New Green Bo - 66 Bayard Street (Chinese)
Don't know much about this place, other than they have the most reasonably priced winter melon soup I've seen  $4.25.
Nyonya - 194 Grand Street (Malaysian)
Right on the edge of what's left of Little Italy.  (They should just give up - we've always got Arthur Avenue, says the Bronxite.) 
Nyona is named after a particular type of Malaysian Cooking - Nyonya food is also known as Chinese Straits cooking - it's a mix of Chinese and Malay cuisine, heavy on the spices.  Nyonya has a few desserts that I haven't seen at any other Malaysian place (like Penang or Jaya).  While the food and the prices here have been decent, I've decided of late that Nyonya isn't spicy enough for my tastes.  It's worth going to try, but don't expect a mouth-burning experience.

Organic Grill – 123 1st Avenue (7th Street and St. Marks) (Vegetarian/Vegan)

I expected better from Organic Grill.  Located on the border of Alphabet City and the East Village, the diner has a cute, artsy flair – and a menu that just promises a wealth of tasty veggie treats…especially for brunch.  I’d picked up a flier on one of my previous travels, and there were so many promising items that I found myself unsure of which to pick:   Belgian Waffles with tofu whip, crepes with vegan ice cream, or the obligatory though tempting tofu scramble? Then there were the veggie desserts, ranging from oatmeal cookies to rugalah. But hey, it was Sunday brunch, which practically mandates pancakes…so I went for buckwheat berry pancakes, with a side order of soy sausage (and a chai latte…just because). My husband—not vegan—chose the French bread, with veggie bacon. Sadly, the vittles proved only so-so. The latte was tasty, but lukewarm. So were the pancakes, which were far from the heaping Sunday-breakfast size that I had been hoping to dig into. And they sat next to the smallest, driest little hunks of soy sausage that I’d ever seen. Not too impressive – though at least they looked like sausage. My husband’s bacon proved to really be slices of marinated tempe…tasty, yes. But was it bacon? No.

Not that the meal wasn’t okay.  My husband, in fact, loved his French bread – both for flavor and the generous size of the platter. And the service was good – even despite a crowd of customers which came in shortly after we arrived.  But based on the menu, I’d been hoping for so much more. Ultimately, breakfast at Organic Grill proved fair…but not fantastic.
Pell Street
A small little curvy street, right off of Mott Street (and below Canal).  A great source of cheap barber shops.  Haven't visited yet, but they were recently written up in Time Out Magazine.

Penang - 41-43 Elizabeth Street (Malaysian)
The peanut pancake here is absolutely amazing.  The rest of the entrees are pretty good, too, and did I mention reasonable?  My husband and I ate at Penang, had two appetizers, entrees and two beers - the amount came to a little under $40.  Got to love it.
Pho Pasteur - 85 Baxter Street (Bayard and Walker) (Vietnamese)
Walk along Baxter Street, and you'll pass by a string of restaurants...offering Pho, Goi Cuon, and many more staples of Vietnamese cuisine.  Nestled in the middle is a small, modest joint - just one of many, marked only by a plain white sign, hanging over an undistinguished storefront.  Small and plainly decorated, Pho (New) Pasteur isn't much to look at.  The tables are clean, and the prices are modest...and the Kho is fantastic....a deep, carmelized soup of veggies, spices, tofu, meats and/or seafood....poured over white rice, with a salty-sweet, complex flavor.  Positive reviews on menupages overflow...calling Pho Pasteur "Best on the Block" and "The One and Only".  Based on the Kho, I'd have to agree, and have vowed to return, and sample the myriad other Vietnamese staples that they offer, from Canh (soups) to the many Che desserts.  Wow.  I've got Sau Voi, Saigon Banh Mi, and now Pho Pasteur.  My Vietnamese trilogy is complete!

Pho Viet Huong - 73 Mulberry Street (Vietnamese)
I didn't like this place.  The day I went, the service was slow.  I ordered a frog dish, and ended up chewing around vertebrae throughout the meal (and I don't mind that in general - I'm quite used to it with canned Salmon).  But in this case, I actually was afraid of choking.  But - that's just one experience, so don't let this review stop you if you're interested in trying Pho out.

Pho Tu Do – 119 Bowery (Vietnamese)
Finally – a Vietnamese restaurant worth revisiting.

Already known to chowhounds, the restaurant has a good reputation...not to mention a fortuitous location, nestled between the two best Vietnamese markets in Chinatown* But what brought me in was the picture menu, advertising a few items that I'd found to be rare – Banh Beo and Banh Uot. Two glutinous delicacies in one stop - that was too good an offer to pass up. And the experience was worth it...from the plain, neat decoration to the friendly staff and comfortable vibe. A touch on the expensive side, the menu nevertheless delivers on some harder to find items (such as vegetarian Banh Khot.) Some typical dishes--such as papaya salad--appear to be missing, but the good stuff makes up for it. At least the Banh Uot did...a chewy, textural delight, flavored with chili and fish sauce. Yes, I'll be skipping the blood Chao porridge on my next trip – but at least I think I'll go back.

10/16/06 - What a difference two days can make – at least when you're looking in the right place, and the chowhound gods are smiling. Have completed a disappointing vegetarian survey, I was in the neighborhood, but on my way home. Minutes from the subway, I passed under the shadow of an old favorite haunt – Sau Voi. Curious as to what was on the menu, I stepped inside...and hit the Vietnamese mother lode. On the counter lay numerous exotic treats , glutinous snacks which I had been hunting for weeks. Sugary Xoi, Banh Bot Lac...and the Bahn Beo, which I had been so thrilled to find at Pho Tu Do. Though stuffed, I grabbed the first two items...and neither disappointed. The Xoi proved pleasantly sweet and the Banh Bot Lac became an instant, chewy favorite – more than a match for anything I had sampled at Pho. The cost of my purchase – the princely sum of $4.00. So cheap and tasty wins again. I'll keep Pho Tu Do in mind – but only for out of town guests, who insist on a sitdown experience!

* Tan Tin Market and Nha Sach Khan Tri.
Rice to Riches - 37 Spring Street (between Mott and Mulberry)
Located on the edge of Chinatown - a small, unique dessert shoppe specializing in rice pudding (available in a myriad of flavors, from coconut coca to rest in peach.  The sweets are delicious and healthy (at least in theory.)  The decor is classy, and the sweets are positively yummy - complete with a full range of toppings (including oatmeal cookie crumble and mixed nuts.)  If you have the slightest sweet tooth, you have to give this place a try.  Because rice pudding deserves another chance...!
Saigon Banh Mi - 138 Mott Street (Vietnamese)
This little shoppe can be easy to miss - nestled in the back of a jewelry store near the southern corner of Grand.  The menu is small, offering quality over quantity - including Banh Uot (a rarity in Chinatown), Nem Sausage, and a refrigerated section with salads, canned drinks and sweet Vietnamese beverages such as Rainbow Che.  Then there's the Banh Mi - tasty renditions of that Vietnamese hero sandwich, available with pork, chicken...and veggie versions as well!  The staff is warm, pleasant and happy to offer suggestions - an altogether fun experience.  And $3.25 for a delicious sandwich - let's just say you can't go wrong!
Sau Voi Corp - 101-105 Lafayette Street, Store 3 - (Vietnamese)
This place on the outskirts of Chinatown (conveniently a few steps off the #6 train) has alot of small dish samplers of Vietnamese food at the counter.  They're going to keep me busy for quite some time, I'm sure.  Candy items, and several great and cheap Bahn Mi sandwiches  - one of the great things about Sau Voi (in comparison to Tin Tan and Na Sach Khan is that alot of their stuff is labeled...so you'll be able to identify what you like - and what you want to have again!)  Plus - how can you not love a place with dishes to go of Bahn Bot Loc and Banh Beo!?!  Highly recommended!
Sanur - 18 Doyers Avenue (212-267-0088) (Malaysian)
Not to be found on citysearch.com or the yellow pages, Sanur has two good things going  for it - it's the only Malaysian joint in NYC that I know of that has Kueh, Kueh.  And it serves something it calls an "economical breakfast" for $1.75 a pop (Nasi Lemak and other selections.)  A cheap place after my own thrifty heart!!!    It's also the only place I know that has Roti Telur.  The service is gruff, and the entrees--well, most left me flat.  But the Kueh and the cheap breakfasts are winners.
Sweet N' Tart Cafe - 76 Mott Street (Other locations include 20 Mott Street, and Flushing, Queens) (Fusion)

I am so glad I found this place! 

The 76th Mott Street version (the Cafe) is a small, hidden nook down a flight of stairs.  With the small tables, sitting across from a stranger for your meal, it has an sleek, modern cafeteria feel.  And its a treasure trove of exotic snacks.  They have sago drinks, blood congee, meals with duck tongue, snow frog jelly, you name it.  It's a little more expensive than usual for me (my snacks are usually $1.50 or less), but more than reasonable for the average person.  At an average cost of $4.00 per item, it's very much worth it.  The Restaurant is 20 Mott Street - it's bigger, with a bigger selection of stuffs such as ice cream, and more entrees.  I kind of like the Cafe better - it has a more inviting vibe.  But they're both worth a visit. 3.75 stars!

2/21/06 Update  - It appears that Sweet n' Tart is gone, replaced by a new bubble tea type cafe.  (It took me a while to realize the big new sweet and red sign was pasted over the place that Sweet n' Tart used to be.  The restaurant down the street is still there...but the cafe?  Kaput.  What a shame.  But - eventually I'll try the new place, and let all and sundry know the verdict.
Tasty Dumpling - 54 Mulberry Street
I *believe* this place is owned by the same people who own Dumpling House on Eldridge (it appears they have an identical menu).  Anyway, 5 fried dumplings for $1.00 - a great deal.  My only grumble - you can't order 5 boiled dumplings (which I prefer) - you've got to order 10 for $2.00.
Ten Pell - 10 Pell Street (Chinese)
Across the street from Joe's Shanghai.  The place was empty when I went in, but it gave good soup dumplings.

Thai So'n - 89 Baxter Street (Vietnamese)

Not bad.  Too touristy (read, clean, bright and commercial) for my tastes.  But so far it's the only place that I've found Banh Xeo (Vietnamese Crepe), and that--at least--was terrific.  They're a bit on the pricey side,  $5-9 for a dish.  Phil ordered a chicken with lemongrass, which honestly tasted like your basic American Chinese takeout.  But I have to say, the service was nice.
Wo Hop - 17 Mott Street (Chinese/American)
Long famous as a purveyor of greasy spoon Chinese American fare, Wo Hop is loved by some and depised by others (who dub it "Wo Glop.").   Something of a Chinatown landmark, Wo Hop is split into two levels...with the more tourist friendly restaurant on the second floor, and a divey hole-in-the-wall room downstairs in the basement.  Guess which one I picked?

For those allergic to upscale, the vibe was just right - featuring walls plastered with pictures of quasi celebrities and numerous newspaper reviews.  The small diner tables were somewhat cramped, and definitely populated --even on the rainy Saturday that I walked in the door.  As for the food?  Well, I have to admit to keeping the sample small...limited solely to an order of eggplant in black bean sauce.  For seven dollars, the quantity was right...enough for two whole meals.  As for the taste - really no different from the corner Chinese takeout store.  No better, no worse...though the meal sat heavily in my stomach for a few hours afterwards, making me wish I'd stuck with the Dragon Fruit that I'd noshed on earlier. 

So is Wo Hop worth a trip?  Nah.  Though if you're hung over, and seeking munchies in Chinatown, it might just fit the ticket.
XO Kitchen - 148 Hester Street (Elizabeth and Bowery) and 96 Walker Street (Hong Kong)
An authentic Hong Kong diner - specializing in dishes from frog congee to pork chop over rice...as well as a range of tempting desserts (such as Tang Yuan, various Tong Sui and Mango Pudding.)  Available in two convenient locations, XO Kitchen has a cheap, fun Hong Kong vibe - not too fancy - with menu specials pasted on colorful bits of paper on almost every wall space available.  

The price is also awright, running about $6 for an entree and as little as $2.50 for a dessert.  Recent excursions have focused exclusively on the sweet stuff: including Tang Yuan (peanut buttery delicious) and ginger milk (not bad, though not worth a second tasting.)  But other desserts beckon - including double boiled milk, papaya sago with ice cream, and even odorous noshes as durian pancake and pudding.  (God knows when I'll get to the savory stuff!) 

But no matter the timeline, this is one location worthy of further exploration.  Taipan Bakery, eat your heart out....

3/10/07 Update - Tried the durian pudding and double boiled milk.  The verdict - both good, though not awe-inspiring.  Topped with condensed milk, the pudding had a mild, slight durian tinge.  The boiled milk was nice (though guilt inducing to my vegan principles...), laced with a light ginger flavor that really helped it along.  Neither are worth a second trip.  But there's plenty of other things worth trying at XO anyway...

3/11/07 Update - I can't stay away from this place!  Today, the sample consisted of the honeydew sago dessert and the durian pancake.  Both proved to be worthy...with the honeydew dessert a sweet compilation of black tapioca balls, coconut pudding and honeydew melon balls, bathed in either coconut or condensed milk.  The durian pudding was even better - made from fried thin rice sheets, filled with durian flavored pudding.  Mmmmmm.

Chinatown: Sweets and Bakeries

Aji Ichiban - 37 Mott Street, as well as four other locations in Chinatown (Japanese)
Also called Munchies Paradise.  Aji Ichiban is a Hong Kong based snack food store, specializing in Japanese goodies.  What makes Aji Ichiban amazing is that the snacks have little sampler bowls and they encourage you to eat them.  They have dried plums, wasabi peas, and Candied ginger is a must.  It's a good marketing strategy.  Once you're stuffed, guilt demands that you buy something.  It's not hard to find something worth taking home...Four stars!

Economy Candy - 108 Rivington Street (between Ludlow and Allen)
Okay - it's on the bare fringes of Chinatown, and it's not Asian food by far.  But if you're in the area, you have to go to this place!  Economy candy carries all of the old time stuff - chocolate cigarettes, satellite wafers, necco wafers, pez, and a ton o' gourmet chocolates like Lindt and Kinder.  It's like being a kid in a--er, um--candy store?  It's a nostalgic trip into heaven.  Go.  Enjoy.  3.75 stars!

Golden Fung Wong Bakery - 41 Mott Street (Chinese)
Go there for their black sesame glutinous rice cake.  It's terrific, and I've never seen it anywhere else in Chinatown.  They also have a good solid selection of other bakery items, and even stock X-rated fortune cookies.  Perfect for that special someone...

HW Cafe Bakery - 242 Canal Street (Chinese)
A great overall bakery.  Less commercial than some of the other bakeries.  I especially love their glutinous (white) rice cake, which I haven't seen available elsewhere.
Taipan Bakery - 194 Canal Street or 37-25 Main Street (Flushing) (Chinese-Taiwanese?)
One of the larger, more commercial bakeries in both the Manhattan and Flushing Chinatowns.  It's always bustling, always a line.  The highlights: glutinous sugar rice cake, 'my bread' (a peanut butter and condensed milk sandwich on white toast) and a host of good ice cream sundae platters.  (Try the German or Tiramisu sundae - they take awhile to make, but have plenty of ice cream, cake, and fresh fruit - and are just large enough to fill you up.)  Also: they have a catering menu!
Ten Ren Tea and Ginsing - 75 Mott Street (Bubble Tea)
One of the bigger and more respected Bubble Tea chains. They have a ton of different mixes - although I haven't tried many as yet.

Chinatown: Non Food Topics

BLT Supplies, Inc. (Martial Arts) - 77 Mulberry Street
Did I mention?  Other than being a foodie (or Chowhound, depending how you look at it), I'm also a Jujitsu martial artist (currently green belt in Jujitsu.)  And I especially love beautiful edged weapons (like food, I like things that look exotic, that I haven't seen a million times before.)  I also like cheap.  And this place fits the bill with both aspects.  They have a great book and video selection of martial arts instruction and really, really nice looking push daggers and fancy knives up front, some of which are only about $25 per (and they look very good.)  So if you're into such things, by all means check this place out.  It really beats the place on Mott Street!

Chinatown: Tips N' Tricks N' Travel

  • Subways - Almost every subway goes to Chinatown, at least indirectly.  But I find it best to take the green line 6 local.  That lets you off at Lafayette, which is the western corner of Chinatown.  Get above ground, and just start heading east.
  • The crowds - Even compared to the rest of Manhattan, Chinatown is crowded.  Get used to it.  Don't shove, but be prepared to have to shoulder people out of the way gently.  And walk in the streets when possible.
  • Get outta town (buses on the cheap) - Recently, buses linking the larger Eastern Metro areas have begun to pop up, linking them from Chinatown to Chinatown.  And they're really cheap!  I found out about it from a Boston friend - the major routes include NYC, Boston, Washington DC, Philly, maybe others.  As of this writing, Boston - NYC is $20 roundtrip, and NYC-DC is $40.  Peter Pan, eat your heart out.  Click here for a list of the operating lines.  They're big, comfy buses, with an inflight movie, too!  It's thrift heaven!
  • Where to go (literally and figuratively) - Where can a person find a bathroom in Chinatown?  You can try to sneak into McDonalds, but they tend to stop you before you get to the bathroom (and who wants to buy Micky Dees food when you're in Chinatown just to gain access?)  BUT - there are two public park bathrooms for those of us 'in the know'.  The first is in Sara Roosevelt Park (Broome St. and Forthsythe).  The second is in Columbus Park (Mosco Street and Mulberry).  They're not too scary, and very useful when needed!

Flushing Chinatown

The other NYC Chinatown.  I haven't explored the area fully yet, but it deserves mention.  The main difference I've noted from Chinatown Major is that the Queens version is spread out almost like a suburb.  It's not as concentrated, and covers a large enough area that to see it all  it would be better to have a car.

The majority of it runs along Main Street between  Franklin and Northern Boulevard.  Check out 40th street, it's particularly interesting, as is Roosevelt, which  has places to explore extending about a block in either direction.  There's also a noteworthy supermarket off of Kissena Boulevard.  If you keep walking past Franklin, you'll eventually run into a bunch of Pakistani and Indian restaurants/groceries.  FYI.

 In case you are arriving by car, note also that the area has Avenues and Streets, which are different roads, and the numbers don't run along the same sequence.  (Not that there's much good parking, so warning!) 

By subway, simply hop the 7 to the last stop - that's how I did it on my second try.

It seems way more authentic and less tourist oriented than Manhattan's Chinatown.  Pro: more exotic, authentic food.  Con: most of the signs and menus are therefore in Chinese - can't read 'em!

Should you explore the area yourself, I have found two good sources of information:


Bownie - 143-05 45th Avenue (Flushing, Queens) - Sri Lankan
The only Sri Lankan place outside of Staten Island!  Bownie is a small, no frills kitchen - with good people, and a small, but tasty selection of Sri Lankan food.  A bit of advice: go for the Pittu!  Another plus - it's got parking on the street, and is relatively near to Flushing Chinatown proper.
Canaan - 36-58 Main Street (Flushing, Queens) - Tiawanese
It's in the food court, second stall from the last on the first floor.  Haven't tried much here yet, but it's the one place I "know" to get stinky tofu (choudofu).  And at $3.50 for most meals, the prices are good.
Curry Leaves - 135-31 40th Road (Flushing, Queens) - Malaysian
Yippee!  Keuh Keuh that I like better than Sanurs!  (And Sanur has decent Keuh.)  Haven't tried the entrees yet, but will.  This place is a small nook in the wall, so don't miss it while walking by.  And don't miss the bright green Keuh with shredded coconut on top.  The bright green one that looks like a burrito is pretty good, too!  The only negative: you never know which Kueh they'll have, or when it will run out (and they run out alot).  3.9 stars!
Sago Tea Cafe - 3902 Main Street (Flushing, Queens)
Not impressed - the bubble tea I had was too expensive, not sweet enough, with not enough "bubbles".  (Sigh)
Sentosa - 39-07 Prince Street (Flushing, Queens) - Malaysian
Haven't had an entree here yet, although I've heard the name many a time.  It's a classy, clean and upscale looking place - and it has one thing that I can swear to: the only Roti Kaya in town.  There's also one in New Jersey, so I hear. 


Unique Pastry - 135-23 40th Road (Flushing, Queens) - Chinese
My first flushing linkable.  This is a great easy-to-miss hole in the wall bakery right off the 7 line.  They have terrific buns, filled with taro, spicy chicken (very good), and other stuffs.  I also had an egg and chives pastry that wasn't bad.  They're very nice and friendly, and it's only a little over a dollar a roll.  If you're in Flushing, you have to go! 

9/6/06 Bad news - I hear that Unique Pastry is no more, closed up shop.  Good news: they've moved to Manhattan West Village, under the name Roll and Dough!  Closer bings...yum!


OTHER NABES
Brooklyn
Barcade - 388 Union Avenue, Brooklyn NY (Bar Only)

Large as a warehouse--and about as decorative--the idea behind Barcade is intriguing.   Good beer, combined with old fashioned video games - playable for the original $.25.  For those who grew up in the 80s, Barcade seems the perfect synergy of adult and post-adolescent fun...the chance to tie one on, while playing blast-from-the-past classics such as Ms. Pacman, Centipede, and Gauntlet .

Though great in concept, reality proves somewhat less than satisfying (at least for this old-timer.)  During our trip, many of the games were broken (including old favorites such as Spyhunter, Galaga and Tetris.)  And for those still operative, the thrill fades pretty fast.   Compared to current standards, the graphics and play of the old arcades is pretty clunky...and there's only so many times you can play Berzerker before it gets old.  (Okay, one time at best.)

There are a few neat ideas here - including little tables besides each game, providing places to put your drink.  But--for me at least--the trip out to Brooklyn just wasn't worth it.

Want to play Ms. Pacman while buzzed?  Buy a version for your PC, X-Box or Playstation - and pour yourself a comfortable drink at home.  You'll never have to wait for a game...and it's less likely to be busted.

Cambodian Cuisine - 87 S. Elliott Place, Brooklyn, NY (Cambodian) (CLOSED as of 5/06)
The only Cambodian restaurant in NYC - the place looks like my style - small, very little decoration, and all about the food.  I've only had the chicken amok so far, but I am looking forward to future exploration through their menu.

Kabir's Bakery - 1425 Foster Avenue, Brooklyn and 29-05 36th Avenue, LIC (Indian/Pakistani)
Haven't been to a physical location, but have had their products at my local Bronx deli.  They seem to have a good variety, so they deserve at least preliminary mention.
Primorski - 282 Brighton Beach Avenue, Brooklyn (Between Brighton 2nd and 3rd Street)
Primosky's has been around for 23 years.   Nestled in the heart of Coney Island's Little Odessa, the restaurant has distinguished itself as one of the few Russian establishments to offer its patrons a taste of Russian and Georgian cuisine.  Serving as both disco-nightclub and restaurant, the dining area for Primorsky is surprisingly classy and the menu impressively large, with options ranging from very cheap ($5.49 lunch specials featuring soup, salad and entree) to dinner banquets (priced around $40 per person.)  For those who know what they want, a la carte is also available - featuring everything from the ubiquitous staples of borscht, dumplings and crepes to the less familiar Georgian specialities (which for me were the culinary draw.)

For those into exotic cuisine, there's alot here to try...offering unfamiliar names, and novel Georgian flavors.  There's Satsivi -- featuring chunks of chicken bathed in a creamy walnut sauce. (A bit bony, reports my husband...though the sauce was rich and tasty.)   Equally rich was the Kachapuri, a decadent stuffed pastry about the size and shape of a frisbee - the outer coating similar to a croissant, filled with thick, smooth Georgian cheese.  (Oh God, if only they made one with soy cheese!)  And there's stuff for vegans too - with large servings of Lavash Georgian bread, surprisingly tasty pickles (my actual highlight of the evening), rolled eggplant in walnut sauce and jonjoli salad - made from marinated acacia flowers.  Not bad for a first trip...and there was definitely more to try - if only our stomachs had been a little bit bigger.  The service?  Pleasant.  The bill?  Not bad - with the tab running approximately $40 for four dishes and two Russian beers.

In Brooklyn, two other restaurants also offer Georgian food - well praised establishments known as Tbilisi and Piromansi.  So will Primorski be my favorite of the three?  Only time -- and experimentation -- will tell.  But in the meantime, Primorski made for a pleasant introduction to a new culinary frontier.  Uncle Vanya's, eat your heart out.
Singapore Annual Chili Crab Festival (2006) - 66 Water Street
An annual event hosted by Tiger Beer (now in its third year of operation), the Chili Crab Festival is billed as "a festival like nothing else found in New York, or even the US...(with) the vibrancy and excitement of a massive Singaporean Street Fair."  Promised munchies for the event include chili crabs, and "other authentic Asian delectibles."

Unfortunately, the reality was only a block long, and not all that impressive.  The titular Chili Crabs were in evidence, yielding little meat for alot of hard (and messy) work.  A few booths away, generic Laksa was available - ladeled into small styrofoam dishes.  Not much other authentic food was available - at least for anyone already familiar with Singaporean cuisine.  At the beginning of the fair, a sign was posted advertising "Roti Prata" (causing a spontaneous "Happy Gaijin Girl Dance")- but within the hour it had been turned against the wall.  The promised Prata never emerged.  Yet, the line for hamburgers and hot dogs stretched down the block.  (A sad commentary on American tastes, as well as the available selection.)  The only culinary discovery of the afternoon was made by my husband (the beer gourmand/brewer) - the realization that Tiger Beer is a decent light lager, perfect for quenching a summer day's heat.  Which was fortunate, since (other than a few canned drinks) no exotic refreshements were available - no black jelly drinks...no ABC...just nothing special at all.

Ultimately, the only highlight of the day was the raffle, offering a chance to win a trip for two to Singapore.  But the festival was only worth about an hour of anyone's time.  We ended up buying $10 worth of tickets, and left - feeling that the money could have been spent so much better at Sanur.  At least they would've had the Prata.  But then...we haven't heard the result of the raffle yet.  If we win, maybe I'll feel a little differently...!

Taking the Trini (and Guyanese) Challenge - A comparison of Nostrand and Liberty Avenues
For chowhounds, travel can be both blessing and curse.  A natural result of the food-hunting bug, travel becomes necessary as one's tastes mature - becoming more esoteric, rarified - and less easily satisfied in one's own backyard.  Finding a good Chinese restaurant in your neighborhood?  That can be difficult.  Finding good Peruvian, South African, or (god forbid) Sir Lankan...?  Now that can be a bitch - even if you're lucky enough to live in the East Village.  It's enough to make you want to move to Queens.

But there's a positive side as well, especially for native New Yorkers stuck in their home-turf ruts.  Whether its stinky tofu, or Es Campur, searching for that elusive dish can be just the impetus needed to get us off our collective butts, out of our boroughs - and into the rest of this place known as New York City.  It's a big place - and we really ought to see more of it than just Manhattan.

On this occasion, the craving was for Trinidadian food: an urge to sample Shark and Bake, Cassava Balls - and find out just what the heck Bagani was...  The web wasn't telling, and the Bronx sure wasn't providing.  There was only one cure for it all - to whip out the unlimited Metro Card and head toward the wilds known as Brooklyn and Queens.  Specifically, Nostrand/Utica and Liberty Avenues - located towards the ends of the 3 and the A.    It must have been temporary insanity.  From the Bronx, Canal Street is far enough. Riding the A train to the end?  Now that's just nuts.  But what could I do?  It was a craving - and it had to be satisfied.   The result: an impromptu walking tour of competing neighborhoods, a survey ultimately taking  two weeks to complete.

The first weekend belonged to Brooklyn - with a sampling of Nostrand and Utica Avenues.  Targeted locations included Patsy's Authentic Trinidad on Utica, Trinidad Roti Shop and Trinidad Golden Palace Restaurant - picks culled from chowhound, citysearch, menupages and (of course) Robert Sietsema.  Yet the vibe seemed off, and the menus uninspired - filled with nothing more exotic than average offerings of roti, a little macaroni pie - and the occasional jerk chicken.  Nothing that White Plains road couldn't have provided...and with a friendlier atmosphere.  You don't get a very welcoming feel on Nostrand Avenue - at least not on that day.  Or was it just me?

The second weekend belonged to Queens - a lengthy trip to the last stop of the A, at Lefferts Boulevard.   A long ride - but worth every minute, if only to explore that strip of Liberty Avenue stretching from Lefferts to Van Wyck - a goldmine of Trini and Guyanese treasures.  Here - the vibe was good, and so was the food...and the options.  Doubles and roti shops of every stripe (including vegetarian) line the street, speckled with Guyanese restaurants (begging to be explored in future trips.)   Though the well loved Singh's Roti remains to be sampled, highlights of the maiden voyage include Little Guyana Bake Shop, Hot and Spicy (aka Savi's Quik Serv) - and an upcoming restaurant known as Maracas Bay (with that title, it seems I'll get my Shark and Bake yet!) 

My experience with Liberty Avenue was thrilling - and it will definitely be repeated.  As for Brooklyn?  Well...the 3 line will have to do without me for awhile.  So Queens wins the title - at least for this subjective round.  Was it a fair food fight?  Who knows....but at least I have my roti - and yet another reason to someday move to Queens.

Now - where the hell can I find that &*^&^(* poi?
A Difference in Taste - Foodswings vs. Bliss

During a recent trip to Brooklyn, I was fortunate enough to be able to sample not one--but two--well known vegetarian restaurants, both located in the heart of Williamsburg.  (Being a Bronx resident, I don't get out to Brooklyn too often...so you gotta scarf it down when the opportunity presents itself.)

The result?  An interesting contrast in culinary philosophies - ranging from austere to the ultimate in fast food indulgence...with proof that vegan/vegetarian fare need not be bland, one-note...or even healthy.

Bliss - 191 Bedford Avenue (between 6th and 7th street)
Specializing in organic vegetarian, Bliss Cafe has a healthy, hipster vibe.  Known for its brunches, the cafe serves up a number of veggie staples such as fresh squeezed juice, tofu scramble and homemade granola with yogurt (available in both soy and regular non-vegan varieties.)  When I arrived, I'd actually hoped to score a breakfast burrito with a side of cornbread (said by some to be quite addictive.)  But breakfast was over - resulting in an order for the titular Bliss Bowl...a mix of brown rice, tofu, salad dressing and steamed vegetables.    The result?  A lot of food, but very little flavor.  Even with the ginger dressing, the bowl proved bland...and no tastier than straight steamed vegetables from Shop Rite (something that even I--with my limited culinary skills--could have topped.)  To be fair, it was only one dish--which did admittedly leave my stomach with a nice, light airy feeling.  And the breakfast food might have been better.  The service was great, and the atmosphere pleasant.  So perhaps Bliss deserves another chance.  But given the long trip to Brooklyn, that's unlikely to happen.

Foodswings - 295 Grand Street (between Roebling and Havemeyer)
Then there's Foodswings - conceptualized by its owners as a punk, unapologetic ode to fast food (done all-vegan style)

There ain't a thing about Foodswings that's stylish.  Decorated with all the flair of a school cafeteria, FS features loud music, no bathrooms, and disposable plates.  Though not unpleasant, the counter staff's hardly attentive, and has a tendency to socialize on the job.  (At least they did when I was there.  Hey, who wants to pay attention to customers, anyway?)

You know what?  I really like this place.

In stark contrast to vegan fare's reputation as healthy and bland, Foodswings serves up classic comfort food.  The menu at FS reads like a Junk Food Hall of Fame, with items such as hotdogs, hamburgers, mac n' cheese, tuna salad sandwiches, pu-pu platters, chicken nuggets and even milkshakes (which are said to be awesome - with or without alcohol added.)  Sure, the quesadillas have drippy vegan cheese - but they're warm and satisfying nonetheless!  There's tofu jerky available at the counter, and various dessert options, depending on the day.  (Though the cheesecake I had proved less than amazing...kind o' dry and heavy, and just not quite right.)  The only drawback - certain items are only available late nights...so don't expect to satisfy your grilled ham and cheese craving during daylight hours.  Okay, and the prices could be somewhat cheaper.  Still - Foodswings is fun.  Call me a proletariat, but given a choice between a Bliss Bowl and Vegan Fish n' Chips...?  Well, there's just no contest.

Chelsea (14th to 42nd - Westside)
Blossom Gourmet Vegan - 187 9th Avenue (Between 21st and 22nd)

Four star vegan

The neighborhood known as Chelsea is not one of my regular haunts.   Living in the Bronx--and working on Park Avenue--it's only natural that I'm an east-ender, roaming the green line to Canal Street or St. Marks - with rare reason to travel to the western end of the island.

But on one evening, my routine had taken me west - beginning with a stop-off at Columbus Avenue, followed by a quick jaunt through Hell's Kitchen.  I'd been meaning to sample Blossom Gourmet Vegan - and 22nd street was only a few blocks south.   Even given the cold winter air, the opportunity was obvious.  And it proved to be worth the walk.  Because Blossom is truly a class act.

When you're used to Chinatown, the decor at Blossom can take your breath away - an elegant, pristine space with candlelit tables and professional  waitstaff.  Unfortunately for my wallet, the prices are equally highbrow - resulting in a decision to forego the appetizer and head straight for the main course.  My entree for the evening was the Phyllo Roulade - two crisp pastries filled with delicate lentils, and a side order of rainbow swiss chard.   It proved to be a good choice - satisfying and light, with a complex mix of flavors, though somewhat small for an entree.  But thank god, it left room for dessert.  I had chosen the chocolate ganache, based on positive reviews that I had previously read.  And well...it was truly fantastic - blowing previous experiences at Babycakes and Kates completely out of the water.  Served with a side order of ice cream, the ganache was unbelievably rich for a vegan dessert...proving dairy unnecessary for sinfully rich sweets (and making me wonder how wonderful vegan cheesecake might be, if done by the right person.)

Is Blossom ready for the common man?  No - for the prices are steep, and the portions relatively small (which is actually nice, leaving diners unbloated after a full meal.)  But Blossom does pass the taste taste - too rich for a day on the town, but well suited for extra special occassions - ones which require flavor, atmosphere and that extra special something.

2/17/07 - Dessert newsflash: the apple sticks with caramel sauce is terrific, too!   Not particularly filling - but with plenty of taste in a small, delicate, phyllo wrapped package.  Equal in taste to the chocolate ganache - and providing yet another reason why Blossom is tops in its class.


Da Bronx (my neighborhood)
Ali's Roti Shop - 422 White Plains Road (Corner of 234th Street) - Jamaican/Trinidadian
Another great place in the Bronx (I like this trend, very much!)  A friend of mine turned me onto this place.  Open 7 days a week, decent prices, huge portions, and lots of Roti, Doubles and more.  It's a small place, with lots of stuff inside.  So if you're interested in getting a taste of the Carribean, go here - it's a quicker trip than Brooklyn (at least for me!)
Country Boyz Jerk Yard - 1182 E. Gun Hill Road - Jamaican
Got da ackee here....

A Tale of Two Itals
Looking back, it was probably inevitable that I would be drawn to Ital cuisine.  How could it be otherwise, given my newfound vegan status - amplified by a love for exotic, untried cuisine (not to mention tried--but true--favorites, such as roti and Trinidadian doubles?)  Sure, it required trips into unknown neighborhoods.  But hey, it was fate...with the promise of something new - not to mention tasty.

And it was certainly unknown.  One of the lesser known cuisines, Ital is the official cuisine of the Rastafarian movement.   Derived from the word vital, the philosophy dictates food which is pure, natural...and straight from the earth - lacking processing, and chemical additives.  In most instances, the cuisine is vegan - eschewing flesh and (most) fish products.  What remains are vegetables, beans - and the occasional soy product.  The cuisine is mostly vegan, with West Indian flavor...a nice combination, at least for people with my type of taste.

As with most minority cuisines--such as Burmese, or Ghanian, or even Taiwanese--Ital isn't easy to find.  Only certain neighborhoods carry the food.  In the case of Ital, Brooklyn is the enclave of choice - with secondary options in Harlem, and White Plains Road, located in the Bronx. 

For me, Brooklyn proved too far a journey (I live in the Bronx, and work in Manhattan.)  Fortunately, closer options did exist.  Spurred on by a sense of adventure, I traveled first through the Bronx - and later to Harlem.  A small price to pay, in order to get a taste of Ital...in all of its vegetarian glory.

HIM Ital Organic Restaurant - 754 Burke Avenue, Bronx, NY 10467-6612 (Ital/West Indian)
An enclave of West Indian cuisine, Burke Avenue (and nearby White Plains Road) are studded with patty and roti shops, serving authentic Jamaican (a refreshing chance, in a city filled with Golden Krust.) 

Among these--in the middle of Burke Avenue--stands HIM Ital Organic Restaurant, a small, narrow shop - visually undistinguishable from the surrounding storefronts.  But inside, there is a difference.  Unlike their beef patty brethren, HIM Organic sells Ital food.  Strictly vegan, and very Rastafarian

The choices focus primarily on juices and counter takeout.   Choose two, or three dishes - or get four for $10.00 (resulting in a reasonable size plate - enough to fill a hungry stomach, but not cause discomfort.)  Given the travel time to get across the Bronx, I resolved to make it worth my while, digging in heartily.  Four tempting options were chosen, consisting of vegetables, grains, beans and yam.  The service was pleasant, and so was the taste.

And yet...

I wanted to love it...but something was missing.   Was it the spice, and the expected kick of curry?  Whatever it was, the oomph was lacking - leaving a lasting impression of (good) cafeteria food.  The meal satisfied the belly - but not the soul.  I sadly walked away...vowing that I would give Ital food another chance.  A cuisine combining West Indian sensibilities with vegan options?  It deserved at least that much.  Next stop - Strictly Roots!


Strictly Roots - 2058 Adam Clayton Powell Blvd, NYC (Ital/West Indian)
Yes, Virginia, there is Ital in Harlem - located close to the 125th street subway (just around the corner from the Apollo.)

A small, comfortable shop, Strictly Roots specializes in Rastafarian cuisine - with hot dishes their specialty.  Options include steamed veggies, fried plantains, rice, beans, and faux meat entrees...not to mention a host of sandwiches, soups, pastries and fresh juice blends.  The service is good and meals affordable (four or so options costs $8.00 a plate, available for takeout or eat-in.)

Mildly flavored, the dishes are unlikely to impress a hardcore spicer - but they have character nonetheless, and even a degree of flair.  Especially the meat options, which look disturbingly real - from the stringy, well textured "lamb curry" to the fish dish - complete with a thin, black "skin" still attached.    And as for the pastries...give them a try.  Options range from apple pie to coconut cake (a sweet, crumbly cake that proved the highlight of my meal.)

Is it worth a second trip?  Not for me - but then, I thrill on Malaysian, Thai and Vietnamese - my tastebuds demand more.  But subtle can be nice, as well.  If Strictly Roots were in my neighborhood, it would be a semi-regular haunt.

King Taco - 9 East Mosholu Park Way (off Jerome) - Mexican
My local source of Mexican food - not much to say, but I've had tasty flauta here, and am looking forward to the Pozole.  Good to know, if you've a yen for Mexican, and you're around my way....(Unfortunately, no Champurrado on the menu...!)

Philipino Food Centre - 234 E. Gunhill Road (Phillipino)
Wow!  Finally, something neat in my neighborhood!  This is a decent little deli, with a good selection of desserts in the refrigerator.  Better selection, in fact, than Elvie's Turo Turo.  So take that, Manhattan!  So if you live in the Bronx, check this place out (although beware, they don't keep strict hours - officially, they're open 9-7 every day.).  3.9 stars - this place is A-one, and the absolute best place for Philipino treats (Sapin Sapin, Yema, Macapuno Tarts, etc), especially on the weekend after they've had a shipment in!  If only they kept firmer hours....!
Banh Mi in the Bronx

Finally, another good source of munchies in the Bronx! 

Long ago, I had resigned myself to the culinary drought that is known as the Bronx (a.k.a. my neighborhood.)  Okay, so there are great options - if you're into Puerto Rican, Dominican or other Spanish influenced meals.  And--thank goodness--there is also the Philipino Food Centre on Gunhill, which can satisfy the odd, itchy craving for Sapin Sapin (assuming it hits sometime before 7 pm.  No midnight Philippino snacks for you!)  If you live around White Plains road, there's also a cornucopia of West Indian joints.  But Asian food?  Not so much.  And on busy days, Chinatown seems a looooong train ride away.

But thanks to a lead from Chowhound, there's now another option - a mix of Asian groceries, Thai desserts and even good old Vietnamese Banh Mi .  All available near the Kingsbridge exit - a quick two subway stops off the end of the D train!

Despite the obligatory Micky Dees, the area around Kingsbridge/Grand Concourse has alot of culinary potential.  Near the train entrance--near the historical Poe Cottage--there's the Cambodian grocery store known as Battambang.   Located at 2654 Valentine Avenue, it's stocked with the basics - including plenty of sauces, a few prepackaged desserts and even fresh durian, pre-chopped for convenience. 

As you head down East Kingbridge, several West Indian restaurants become evident - advertising cornmeal, oxtail and other ethnic munchies.  On Jerome itself (2649 Jerome Avenue) there's even an African market.  It's pretty sparse, but packed with a few solid staples (including Banku and Fufu powder, and Shito pepper sauce.)  Phnom Penh-Nha Trang Market is right next door, at 2639 Jerome Avenue.  Like Battambang, Phnom Penh has prepackaged goodies...and a decent supply of sauces, canned groceries, and other Asian stuff for the kitchen cupboard.

Then there's Phung Hung Cafe - the Vietnamese restaurant located right across the street (2614 Jerome Avenue, off 193rd.)  And yes - they gots the Banh Mi.  While not the best rendition in the city, the Phung Hung version has all the good, downhome basics you'd expect in a Vietnamese hoagie - they're cheap, spicy and tasty, and available in three separate varieties (meatball, grilled pork or ground ham.)  (Bless them, they even made a custom veggie version for my good ole' vegan self.) 

If sandwiches aren't your style, be assured that the menu offers plenty of other Vietnamese basics.  There are grab n' go munchies at the counter - ranging from Goi Cuon (fresh shrimp spring rolls) to the rainbow colored glutinous rice dessert known as Banh Da Long.   Other options include rice dishes (com), noodle dishes (bun) and lots of Pho.  There are beverages too - from Da Chanh Lemonade to strong Vietnamese coffee/condensed milk - and a particularly refreshing drink known as Si Muoi, made from ice water flavored with salty preserved plum.  Decent food, at decent prices.  But what's truly refreshing is the simple existance of a Vietnamese restaurant, located in the heart of the Bronx.  Okay, so it's not directly in my neighborhood.  But it's close enough for a quick jaunt.  And that's all that a Gaijin Girl could ask for!
Purity Food - 3812 White Plains Road - Jamaican
Tamarind balls and nice service.

Rock-A-Tone Seafood - 3740 White Plains Road - Jamaican
The only place I've seen bammies...nice.
Vegan's Delight - 3565 Boston Road - Jamaican/Vegan
A small little Jamaican joint--possibly Ital--located on the far end of Boston Road.  Though not large, the store offers some good veggie staples - including mock meat, vegannaise and nicely priced bulk items like beans, grains and dried fruit.  (They also have containers from the "Just Veggie" company, priced at a reasonable $3.99 per container.)  A counter in the back offers a limited selection of decent tasting entrees - ranging from patties to steamed veggies and various mock meat dishes...  (Prices run a little steep, with small one dish entrees costing $5.75.)  But the service is pleasant...and it's nice to have something in the neighborhood.  (Why should Brooklyn have all the veggie fun?)

Eastside (Upper Eastside)
Cafe Mingala - 1393 2nd Avenue, Ste. B. (between 72nd and 73rd) (Burmese)
Burmese cuisine on the upper Eastside.  Owned, incidentally, by the same people who run Village Mingala down on 7th street.  I will say that the gentleman who waited on me during my recent run for Mohinga was very nice.  But...I'm beginning to think that Burmese doesn't appeal to me, with the exception of the Thoke salads, which are wonderful. The rest is too...spicy, with nothing extra to it. (At least - at the Mingala restaurants - can't swear by the cuisine in general!)
Candle 79 - 154 E. 79th Street (between Lex and 3rd) (also operates Candle Cafe) (Vegan)
A high class vegan/vegetarian eatery located on the upper eastside (conveniently close to the 86th street subway.) 

Praised by fans as "the best vegetarian restaurant in the city", the menu offerings at Candle are creative both in name and ingredients: including Eggplant Napolean, Moroccan Spiced Chickpea Cake and Cumin Crusted Tofu.  Desserts (and dessert wines) are also available - offering taste temptations ranging from chocolate to kumquat to Apple-Cranberry (a pie - not a wine.)

Beautifully decorated - and clearly upscale - Candle manages to maintain a surprisingly open and inviting vibe - friendly, yet exceedingly stylish.  The atmosphere simply can't be beat. 

Sadly, the same cannot be said for the food - or its affordability.  One of the priciest of its breed, Candle appetizers and desserts average $11, and entrees reach towards $21.00.  Portions tend towards small - at least based on my choice for the night (Ancho Seared Tempeh, with roasted sweet potato puree, fennel salad, mole sauce and pomegranate reduction.)  Yet despite such an ambitious mix of ingredients, the result was just okay - far from the complex collision of flavors that one might hope to find.  The dessert of the night was better - the Chocolate-Peanut Butter Bliss Mousse....a creamy sweet that satisfied, but failed to make an impression equal to Blossom's  Chocolate Ganache or Sacred Chow's Brownie (even better and cheaper!)

With its wonderful staff, it's easy to love Candle, a gourmet location far better than either Gobo or Zen Palate.  But while the atmosphere shines, the flavor and quality are more lackluster.   Sadly, it seems to be an eastside trend - pretty surroundings and adequate food - but not enough of a culinary paradise to justify $20 per plate.
Gobo - 1426 3rd Avenue (80th and 81st)/401 6th Avenue (Waverly Pl and 8th Street) (Vegan/Asian)
A graceful vegetarian haunt sucessful enough to have spawned 2 locations - one in the west village, the other on the upper east side.  Decorated with clean lines and pristine bamboo, Gobo is clearly upscale - as are its prices (averaging from $8 - $18 per plate.)

For veterans of the veggie scene, the menu offers few surprises - plates of brown rice, dumplings, protein stir-fries and medlies.  Sadly, the flavors skew towards bland - from the (understandably) subtle spinach dumplings to the Sesame Protein Nuggets (washed with the mildest of sweet and sour sauces.)  At least the beverage options look promising - offering a full range of choices from smoothies to bubble tea. 

But the overall effect has an empty feel - resulting in a restaurant which is elegant, streamlined - but lacking in flavor, or individual personality.  Given its looks, it's really too bad.  Because who needs another Zen Palate clone?
Katagiri - 244 East  59th Street (Between 2nd and 3rd) (Japanese)
A good, basic Japanese mart.  Sushi, sashimi, wasabi, daifuku, etc.
Slice, The Perfect Food - 1413 2nd Avenue (73rd/74th) (Pizza)

A little pizza shop on the upper eastside, selling up slices with a twist - fresh/organic ingredients...and lots and lots of options.  The menu offers plenty of premade variations - from plain (the simpleton) to Barbeque Chicken or Taste of India (chickpeas, tomatoes and onions.)  Customers can also mix n' match with different toppings, crusts and cheese (they're very vegan friendly at Slice, offering up both soy and vegan-cheese as alternative toppings.  There's even lactose free parmasan at the counter!)  The vibe is friendly - complete with the (occasional) free sample.  Now, this ain't your Grandma's pizza pie - made from honey whole wheat crust, spelt or rice, the crusts are wafer thin, and best described as crackers.  They're also somewhat weak, and hard to handle with the toppings that go on some of the slices.  (I had a few collapse in my lap.)  Though the slices run towards small--and look something like school cafeteria pizza--they are tasty, and surprisingly filling.  (Some of them are also cut up into neat little sub-triangles, which just looks cute.)

The downside?  The cost is...er...upper eastside compatible, running up to $6.00 for a single slice.  Really not quite worth the full bang for your buck.  (My neighborhood joint Nicky's makes a slammin' good slice--about the size of a small horse--for $4.50.)  And that's a shame, 'cause Slice is a neat concept.  If only more pizza shops offered soy cheese alternatives!

Financial District
Little Lads Basket - 120 Broadway (Lower Arcade) (Vegan... mostly)
Talk about a hidden location!  Invisible from the street, Little Lad's Basket is buried in the lower levels of a financial district building - accessible only after a walk through the stark corporate lobby of 120 Broadway...down a flight of polished, marble stairs.  It's an unlikely spot for a vegan restaurant - but then, who says all veggie places have to be in the Village, or Brooklyn?

Owned by Seventh Day Adventists, LLB is definitely unique...and not just due to locale*. 

The fare is mostly vegan, with a focus on organic natural ingredients - both for takeout and eat-in.  Lined with tables, the foyer features selections of fresh fruit, nut and seed snacks, and lots of little pastry items in portable plastic bags.  But at LLB, it's actually worth it to stick around.  'Cause between 11:30am  and 3:30,  Little Lad's offers a lunch buffet - giving diners the opportunity to load up a plate and bowl with whatever's on hand for the day...all for the low price of $3.99. 

Not surprisingly, the fare is kept simple. On the day of the Gaijin Girl visit, options included carrots, cabbage, tofu "chicken cacciatore" and split pea soup.  A vegan mac and cheese proved particularly tasty...as did the blueberry pie and veg*n "nice cream" (only available on Fridays**.)  Sadly, the much lauded shepherd's pie wasn't available...a dish which has earned many foodie fans.   Though not gourmet or distinctively flavored, the food did satisfy, as did the little snacks near the cashier (including flavored popcorn, and a really good vegan mallomar.). 

The service experience is equally nice....featuring a courteous, sweet staff, and a noticable lack of religious pressure.  (Reading material is available if you want to partake.  But if you don't, that's fine too.)  And here's the kicker - LLB works on the honor system.  You eat and then you pay.  Go ahead, we trust you.  Wow, what a concept. 

All in all., a breath of fresh air - and a surprising oasis from the high stress world of Wall Street.  It's a good place to go, relax, and grab an affordable bite.  That's an attractive combination - especially for jaded New Yorkers like me.

* Available in areas other than NYC, LLB also has locations in Bangor Maine and Portland, OR
** Okay, the pastries were extra.  But still quite affordable.


Grammercy (14th to 42nd - Eastside)
Bonobos - 18 E. 23rd (Vegan/Raw Food)
I've been experimenting with raw food as of late.  The natural, unprocessed food philosophy seems to make sense (as long as you leave the enzyme talk out of it.)  I had previously given Quintessance a try - and liked it.   On the other hand, I'd stuck my nose into Pure Food and Wine, found it too snooty/upscale - and left*.  (Did the same with their quik-stop boutique located around the corner from the restaurant.)  But a friend had praised Bonobos, and so I went.  I'm glad I did.

Longer than it is wide, Bonobos make you think of an old fashioned ice cream shoppe.  The space is clean and brightly lit, with tubs of food on display under glass.  The staff is friendly, and wonderfully free with the samples - an assortment of nut pates, soups, banana ice creams, salads and juices.  Though everything is raw and natural, there's good variation to be found - from durian "ice cream" (take that, Chinatown Ice Cream!) to faux sushi. 

The only downside is the cost ($8.00 or so for a meal) - admittedly reasonable for the Chelsea area.  But try Bobonos, and you'll leave with a happy belly - and maybe a new interest in raw food. And that 's the most important thing.

* 4/21/07 Update - okay, I've since broken down and actually gone to Pure Food and Wine.  And folks, it's really good.  Too rich for my blood (except on really special occasions), but I apologize for the initial snub.  I really, really do...!
Nirvana Cafe - 218 3rd Avenue (off 19th) (Sri Lankan)

Last weekend, I found myself walking along 3rd Avenue - strolling southbound towards Astor Square.  For once, the target wasn't food related.  With Halloween--and the requisite parties--only a few weeks away, I was headed towards the megastore known as Halloween Adventure, in search of (extremely) elusive toy guns for my costume.  (Darn those gun control activists!)  But as I wandered along, a new awning caught my eye: Nirvana Cafe, specializing in....